AS MIDDLE-CLASS INDIAN CONSUMERS flock to sprawling malls to snap up the latest attire offered by European and American labels, fashion originating from the subcontinent is turning heads abroad. Indian fashion has gone from being a local alternative to featuring as foreign brands, and now is becoming a competitive industry that has something to say on the global stage—and the West is taking note.
Designers are finding new outlets, beyond the Bollywood screen, to showcase their innovations. They range from Manish Arora decorating high-end boutiques in Paris to Rajesh Pratap Singh’s creations for the French opera. In addition, Indian fashion is influencing popular culture and in some cases, creating a space for commercial collaboration. American hip hop artist Snoop Dogg appeared in the Bollywood flick Singh is Kinng, sporting a turban and performing with Akshay Kumar on the title track. Back in Hollywood, actress Natalie Portman donned a sari to play a princess in one of singer-songwriter Devendra Banhart’s music videos.
Tristan Wheelock says that shooting fashion in India has always been a treat, if for anything, the sense of theatrics that the designers have with both their garments and the presentation of them. The huge sets, the pounding bass of the music, the swirling mosaic of brightly colored fabrics and the flash of jewels in the spotlights all combine to create movement and vibrancy. In a way, Wheelock says, the clothing becomes a metaphor for India itself.